Avril 7th
Today, I got to make myself useful in the lab. I ran turbidities on both white and red samples. Many of the samples that I had to analyse were bottles meant for export so many of the samples were very clear, around 1 ntu. In addition, I had the opportunity to witness the analysis of wine for the anthocyanin Malvidin via chromatography. I believe the next statement will cement my membership in the oenology geek club but.... it was fascinating! I was under the assumption that malvin 3-glucoside is the more common anthocyanin in young wines before it polymerizes and forms larger complexes with other tannin/phenolic molecules. Kyriako's lab analyzes wines, that are meant to be exported to Brazil, for this particular molecule. When I inquired about this test, I was told it is a method to determine whether a particular red wine (usually Pinot Noir) contained was a "hybrid" or in other words was doctored to enhance the color. This analysis was very pertinent a couple of decades ago when producers had more hybrid varietals planted. Kyriakos informed me that most of those vines have been pulled and that it is no longer a real concern in the industry. He said that Brazil is the only country that he knows of that still requires this analysis. As luck would have it, at least for me, one of the wine samples proved positive for Malvidin. Perhaps there are still some rogue vines lurking out there.....Today was very eventful. In the morning I picked up samples with Aurelie P. Many of Burgundia Oenologia's clients can call the lab and request a sample pick up for the next day. Everyday, Aurelie P drives around first thing in the morning and either drops off necessary products or picks up samples. I had the pleasure of accompanying her. We drove mainly around Aloxe-Corton today...you could see just the beginning of the vineyards beginning to awake from what I understand was an exceptionally cold winter. As a result, Aurelie said, the growth in the vineyards are about a month beyond this year. We stopped at many very notable Domaines. Some clients request only sample analysis while others require consulting as well.
After the whirl wind introduction the area, I met Kyriakos back at the Lab. We had an appointment Monsieur Gerard Fagnoni of Chateau de Santenay. The Chateau was spectacular! I am told that it belonged to the Duke of Burgundy in the 14th centurary. Monsieur Faginoli is a very animated person and lovely to taste with. With at least 50 samples to taste and discuss and only ~2hours to do it, I learned as well as witnessed the art of speed tasting. Back at Archery, I tend to be very thoughtful (if not excessively) about the wine I am tasting, this proved to be a challenging exercise...but I think with a little practice I could earn some racing stripes.
Later, the day continued with a tasting within the lab of a smaller producer who shall remain anonymous as the discussion consisted of methods to ameliorate Brettanomyces affected wines. The methods proposed today ranged from Elegom (gum arabic), copper, and Stabivin additions. It is always interesting to trial various fining agents even in the end they are never applied. The Elegom was particularly intriguing as it did improve the Brett tainted wine. There were still elements of the classic Brett/4ep/4eg character: barnyard, leather, bandaid, however with the addition of Elegom, the aroma profile displayed some fruit (mainly black/blue fruit aromas) that were previously masked.
The day ended with a glass of wine to toast my the end of my jet lag and my ability to stay up past 8pm. I haven't quite figured out how to label the photos that I am posting...but today, I have posted a picture of the lab, my beautiful apartment both inside and outside, Chateau de La Cree, and the city of Beaune. More pics to follow of Chateau de Santenay as well as of the vineyards...stay tuned. Bonsoiree!
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